🔗 Share this article All Chef Should Train Here’: Unassuming Turkish Dining Spot Ranks 4th on Ranking of London’s Leading Restaurants. Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. But, situated prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London. An Shocking Honour This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family utterly shocked. “I’m totally surprised,” states a proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble shop achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list. A Character of Simplicity This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner. The Namesake Creation: Tantuni In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency. The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside. It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together. Beyond the Basic Tantuni There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”. When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour. Outranking the Stars Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations. Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that price. The Creed of Heart It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner. “I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.” The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”. The Path of Hard Work Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son. A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort. “Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects. An Recognition for the Culture This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.